From the start of my most recent journey to Cape Town, I considered many carriers but decided on Qatar Airways. Qatar is all about the Q Suites. What exactly is a Q Suite one might ask? Simply put, it’s your private space at 38,000 feet above earth.
Arriving onboard, I am greeted personally by the most attentive and well-polished steward and stewardess. Yes, I use those old school terms because…it takes me back to an era of glamour which thanks to Qatar is here again. I am offered the most extensive dining and wine menus to order any items I wish during the flight. Oh, and there is no set mealtime; it’s whatever, whenever I feel like it. I notice that the amenities are not just amenities — it is none other than an exclusive collection of creams and perfume by Dyptique of Paris. All I can say is Mais bien sur. Pj’s and slippers for the flight are issued to me in my size along with French champagne to start the journey just right. I sink back into my comfy space, shut the door, and gaze through the windows. I know this is going to be epic.
I decide it’s dinner time, so I select the sea bass with forbidden rice paired with the perfect Premier Cru by Louis Latour. I swoon. I tell you this was the absolute best fish I have had anywhere on the globe! And that’s saying a lot for airline food. For me, the alchemy of travel is superb cuisine, sensational wine, and an exciting destination. It just doesn’t get any better than this.
Upon arrival in South Africa, I am greeted by my driver and whisked away to Cape Town’s latest luxury residence at the waterfront – The Silo. This is a property with a pedigree as part of the Royal Portfolio collection. (The Royal Portfolio includes the stunning Private Residences just outside of the city on the ocean, La Residence in South Africa’s wine country, Royal Malawane in the Greater Kruger National Park, and Birkenhead House in Hermanus.) The Silo, once an historic grain mill, is now an ultra-chic, imaginative space occupying the top six floors of the South African modern Art Museum. With its mixture of antique mill equipment – suspended from the ceiling of the lobby lounge – to its walls adorned with contemporary art, and its suites – most of them two-story duplexes and dazzling Penthouses – it is simply a mecca for design aficionados.
My journey takes me on safari. If there’s one thing and one place you should not miss experiencing, its safari in Africa. While there are many fabulous places go in Africa, each with its own unique features and distinct charm, on this trip I explored Sir Richard Branson’s Ulusaba in the Sabi Sands.
Branson, as we all know, is an out-of-the-box thinker and ultimate doer. From his music label to air and cruise lines, to even space ventures, he raises the bar. But he is also the owner of some extraordinary guest properties worldwide. His penchant for exclusivity and edgy design takes us to his most exhilarating project – Ulusaba in South Africa.
Ulusaba’s prime position along the Sabi and Sand Rivers makes it the best place to see the Big Five in style. Whether you stay at his Rock Lodge, perched high on granite mountains with sweeping landscape views, or anchor yourself at its Safari Lodge, on the ground level right smack at the watering hole, to view game face-to-face while having a meal al fresco, you will be mesmerized every minute of every precious day and night.
Next is a quick overnight at the only address I currently recommend in Johannesburg – The Saxon. Nestled in the Beverly Hills-esque neighborhood of Sandhurst, with its gorgeous tree-lined streets, each resident occupies a compound fit for a king and queen. The Saxon is no exception and is a secret yet sprawling hideaway in the midst of this distinguished postal code. No wonder A-Listers and dignitaries flock here. The hotel is haven to exceptionally spacious suites among lush gardens, a magnificent Zen like spa which is a destination itself, and yummy dining options. Why didn’t I book a longer stay? Saxon, I will return.
Back on safari I take a short flight to Madikwe. This is a curious location in the Northern Cape of South Africa near the border of Botswana. A different topography. It’s off the beaten path, less traveled, and has less of a footprint, which makes for more wildlife exhibiting different behavioral patterns. These creatures are unaccustomed to crowds so its natural and unspoiled. My stay takes me to Dithaba, part of the Madikwe Safari Lodge. Dithaba is intimate with just four private units each complete with plunge pool, fireplace, bespoke personalized service and delicious fresh cuisine. I love their special touches, like the offering of hot lemongrass-soaked towels to guests upon returning from game drives. There are many elements that would beckon me to revisit Dithaba, but the heart, soul, and thoughtfulness of the staff makes the stay feel more like you are surrounded by close friends. It is what has me dreaming of going back and soon.
Last but not least, the pinnacle of my trip to Madikwe is the ultra- luxurious Molori Safari Lodge. Jaw dropping. Sensory overload. Otherworldly. They are just a few superlatives which come to mind. Great attention to detail was thought of at Molori. A mixture of classic elegance with contemporary glam throughout has been manifested here. And the consideration to guest surprises like fresh popped corn delivered by butler on a silver tray while out on an afternoon game drive was brilliant and welcomed! Then the private unexpected dinners set up in lovely locations throughout the lodge. Milori outdoes itself.
I would be remiss not to mention the traditional Sundowners which many Safari lodges and camps will offer (think Happy Hour in the bush). Molori not only includes the obligatory gin & tonic with snacks, but they also provide a full bar complete with specialty crafted cocktails and spirits suited to their guests’ tastes. Another stand out Molori staple is homemade granola and yogurt with coffee on morning game drives along with crepes made to order…while at a sunrise stop. And this was all before the full breakfast that was served upon my return to the lodge. And the safari guides at Molori – outstanding! Jerry Ubisi was personable and tenacious when it came to seeking game. When we told him what we wanted to spot, he did it every time! From the lion who was hiding and then revealed himself and then led us all the way to the airstrip, to the cheetah we had seen no other place on this African adventure (but here on Jerry’s watch), to the rare spotted hyena mother and her cubs who one by one emerged from their den in the light of dusk. It could not have been scripted more perfectly.
My last morning at Molori blew my mind. I was served a sumptuous breakfast in yet another pop – up location on property at a dining room with vistas of the outdoor environment. Below this dining room is what is called a “Hide”. It’s an area underground for guests to retreat and view wildlife at their watering hole at eye level. In Molori style, the interior of the hide is comfortable and smartly decorated in safari style, including a gin and whiskey bar to quench one’s thirst. While having a lovely repast, complete with well chilled Cap Classique bubbles, we were alerted to go below and see some special arriving guests. We slipped down the curved stairway. Visualize an amazing family of adult and baby elephants coming to the watering hole to drink. We had a front row seat without these beautiful creatures knowing. It was at this moment that I began to fight back the tears welling up. I was humbled by the fact that in this world of billions of people, how grateful I am to have chosen to be right here on this very spot on the planet?