On the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea, lies a kingdom that sparkles in the sun. Its name is synonymous with extravagance and opulence. Tourism is mostly oriented toward the wealthy clientèle that the city pampers, and its royal family is quite often found in the public eye. In this issue, Destinations heads to the fabled and fabulous Monaco…
Surrounded on land by its neighbor France, with the Italian border a mere 10 miles away, Monaco was birthed in 1297. The Italian Genoese leader Francesco Grimaldi disguised himself as a monk (Monaco translates to monk in Italian) stealing himself to this region. On the “Rock” he founded an independent principality and instituted the Grimaldi dynasty. A lot has changed since Grimaldi first landed on “The Rock” but the vibe of the former Genoese leader remains – there is no other place on earth like Monaco. Independent, charming, rebellious, and elite.
Aside from hobnobbing with the private jet and yacht crowd, there are many sites to mark on your tourist itinerary…
It’s true. There is much more to Monaco than sipping bubbly, dripping diamonds, exploring intoxicating cuisine, and joining glamorous parties that last all night long. There is a cultural and historic scene in the principality even though its culture and history also tend to bend to the elite and exotic sides, mirroring Monaco’s overall vibe.
Monaco’s Old Town is picturesque, found on a hill that is surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean. After a stroll to the top of the hill, you’ll find yourself in the Place du Palais in front of the Prince’s Palace. The palace belongs to the current Prince of Monaco, Albert II of the Grimaldi House, and his family – Princess Charlene Wittstock and twin children Gabriella and Jacques. Grace Kelly also lived here until her death in 1982. The building is open to visitors, and tickets can be bought at the box office in front of the palace.
The Prince’s Palace houses splendors that illustrate the seven hundred years of uninterrupted reign by the Grimaldi family. A tour of the palace is a journey in time, from the Renaissance to the Napoleonic era. From the palace’s courtyard, a double stairway leads to the Grand Apartments where sumptuous furnishings and frescoes adorn the Mazarin Salon, the York Room, and the imposing Throne Room. The Grimaldi family’s ex-fortress has the best view in town, but you can also book tickets for a tour of the decadent state apartments or the even more decadent car collection. If you are not interested in a tour – possibly the casinos are calling – make sure to at least stop by to see the Changing of the Guard, the Compagnie des Carabiniers. It takes place every day at 11:55 am on the square in front of the Palace and attracts thousands of spectators.
While at the square, make sure to take in its surroundings. The square is spacious and provides a view of Monaco’s port and the buildings running up to the Monte Carlo district. A good eye will even be able to see the famous Monte Carlo Casino. In the other direction, you can see the Fontvieille district where Monaco’s stadium stands with the border with France just beyond it.
Walking around the streets of the Old Town, you can feel the atmosphere of old Monaco. During the high season, it’s full of tourists, but you can always find quiet and peaceful corners. More than likely you will find yourself close to St. Nicholas Cathedral. This is where the wedding of Grace Kelly was held and also the site of both her and her husband Prince Ranier III’s final resting place. Their tombs can be found just behind the altar and are open to visitors.
The slope in front of the cathedral is rich with the exotic plants of St. Martin Gardens (Jardins Saint-Martin), which was created in 1830. Here you’ll find plenty of shade, which is pleasant in the summer, but also great views of the Fontvieille district and the helicopters taking off. The garden’s paths lead to the Oceanographic Museum, which is also worth visiting.
Speaking of Monte Carlo…
In 1856 Prince Charles III of Monaco granted a charter allowing a joint stock company to build a casino. The casino opened in 1861, and five years later the district around it was declared by the prince to be Monte-Carlo. Today, this district hums with activity and beckons high rollers the world over to its casino.
Whether you like to gamble or not, the Monte Carlo Casino is a must-see. The ornate, Belle Epoque centerpiece is glitzy even by Monaco standards. Bookable audio tours run each morning, but you can’t gamble before 2 pm. If you want to tour and then play, it’s best to wait until the afternoon to visit. If you’re only interested in the play, wait until the evening hours. Then you can wear your most fashionable outfit, take photos in front of the outside fountains and Ferraris, and spend hours drinking fizz, rolling dice, or just observing others. Make sure to not overindulge though – especially if you are planning on walking the renowned Monaco Grand Prix route the next morning.
The Monaco Grand Prix is not only one of the most glamorous races, but also one of the oldest. The event was first held back in 1929. It is also one of the most difficult racing circuits as drivers must change gears a staggering 54 times per lap. Their skills are much more relevant and important than pure technology.
The city circuit runs through roughly two miles of the tight and twisting streets of Monte Carlo and fans throng the route observing the race. The most coveted observation spots to watch the competition are from the private homes outfitted with gorgeous terraces that overlook the racetrack and the harbor full of yachts. Although the Monaco circuit is the shortest of the Grand Prix tracks, it boasts the highest ratio of millionaires per yard in the entire world.
Monaco hosts the annual race at the end of May. The rest of the year, you’re free to loop its hallowed tarmac. Fans of the Formula 1 can be found making the trek by foot as it’s a wonderful way to both see Monaco and claim bragging rights that you made it around the notoriously challenging Monaco Grand Prix track.
Where to see and be seen…
Monaco has many dining, drinking, and dancing spots that curry the favor of the wealthy and celebrities. If you are more interested in these types of sightings and not tourist sites, drop into one of the following…
For the more casual, La Note Bleue is a great choice. It’s a shoreside restaurant, bar and terrace that has its own private beach in the summer months. Here, aside from the residents and their friends from this very fine postcode, you will find internationally renowned bands and artists. They entertain crowds Wednesday through Saturday nights all summer long. A reservation’s a good idea as the place is always in high demand.
For the less casual, have a drink at Le Bar Américain. Guests are invited to observe a certain dress code: cocktail or evening dresses for the ladies, shirts and jackets for the men. Unlike some other Monaco nightclubs, this one offers a truly chic and elegant atmosphere. This classy vibe, however, does not make Le Bar Américain any less fun or vibrant.
Once there, you unwittingly relive the story of the Great Gatsby: live jazz music, elegant bar design and great cocktails — everything that reminds one of the Roaring Twenties. The program of live performances changes every month, but the genre remains the same: soul, jazz, blues, pop and funk are played. This iconic cocktail bar is regularly listed among the best in the world, and its restaurant has three Michelin stars. It’s a hangout for the famous – even the fictional famous as James Bond has drunk here in two different films – but be prepared to pay for this lap of luxury experience. A signature cocktail will cost you around $30 each…
Jimmy’z has attracted celebrities for more than 40 years with its incendiary parties. This legendary place is the result of Régine Zylberberg’s collaboration with SBM. In 1970, the “Queen of the Night”, better known as Régine, performed in Monaco. And so began her love story with the principality, where a year later she opened Jimmy’z. Today it has become one of the most popular nightclubs in Monaco; its program always includes world-famous names.
This legendary place even offers a canal cruise in a small canoe, whilst watching the crowds partying and champagne splashing. Thanks to its proximity to the Sporting Gala and Concert Hall, Jimmy’z Monte-Carlo is a favourite after-party venue for such international social events as the Rose Ball.
And, then there are the uber-wealthy clubs. Twiga is a meeting point for jet setters from all over the world. Being one of the world-famous Billionaires Clubs, it is run by Italian businessman Flavio Briatore. The award-winning restaurant serves Japanese and Italian cuisine and offers hookahs. After 1 a.m. live-music performances turn into dancing to the fiery music of invited DJs. Hollywood celebrities, soccer stars, Formula 1 drivers, and renowned businessmen and women often are found in the space.
Finally, if you happen to travel to Monaco in September, stop by the Hotel Metropole. It’s where celebrities and millionaires/billionaires tend to stay during the principalities annual yacht show.
A small place with a big personality…
Monaco is tiny. So tiny in fact that you can walk the length of the principality in under an hour. But for what it lacks in size, it makes up for with its larger-than-life personality.
