On the evening of every October 31st millions of children around the world dress up in costumes and comb neighborhoods in search of treats on Halloween. However, this holiday is neither rooted in Reese’s Cups nor fun-size Snickers bars. American Halloween is a tradition that Irish immigrants brought to its shores many moons ago. Its origin is found in the ancient Celtic tradition of Oíche Shamhna and Samhain, Hallowe’en, which is still celebrated all over Ireland with feasting and games.
Samhain is observed together from sunset on October 31st to sunset on November 1st. The holiday was first observed to mark the Celtic New Year, the end of summer, and the end of the harvest season. It also signaled the beginning of winter, which they associated with death. On this day, the Celts believed the veil between the living and the dead was especially thin. This allowed spirits of the dead to visit the living.
Pagan traditions have continued to evolve in modern times. Customs such as trick or treating – known as guising in Ireland – are based on the Celtic tradition of wearing costumes and masks to disguise themselves from harmful spirits. Mumming is an activity where members of the community host door-to-door amateur theatre skits. In cities like Dublin and Galway, festivalgoers join parades, costume parties, and spooky street performances. The famous Bram Stoker Festival in Dublin honors the Irish author of Dracula, and the Derry Halloween Festival transforms the city into a Halloween wonderland.
Ireland is a land of legends and fairytales and mystical beliefs. It is no wonder then that this night is so wrapped in superstition. It is a night of magic.
Both the ancient pagans and their modern descendants – Wiccans — believe(d) that on this night a Cailleach (a goddess of the winter months) arrives to strip leaves from trees, to quicken the decay of the flesh of the year, so that new life may come. They ask her to fly away taking the unwanted aspects of the previous year so that it may be transformed into something new.
Another ancient Celtic belief practiced is the carving of Jack-o-lanterns. These pumpkins are believed to serve as beacons for departed spirits to return home for visitation on this night. The carving of the pumpkin’s face is necessary to keep unwanted and evil spirits at bay.
Along with Jack-o-lanterns, Irish homes are filled with vestiges of Autumn. Acorns, dried leaves, pinecones, gourds, and dried flowers are used to decorate for the holiday. Homes glow with candles as cinnamon scents the house.
And food? Popular Samhain foods include pumpkin pie, apples, cider, roasted meats, root vegetables, pears, and dark wine. Hosting a big feast to celebrate – potluck style is also common. The traditional offered dinner is boiled potato, colcannon, cabbage, and raw onions, while the traditional Halloween cake – barmbrack – is a fruit bread. Each member of the family gets a slice. Hidden within the bread are a coin, a ring, and a piece of rag. The person who gets the rag has not a bright financial future for the year, while the person who receives the coin does. The ring, of course, indicates romance in the offing.
The American tradition of Halloween with its Trick-or-Treating and ghoulish stories has been exported to the world’s four corners, including Ireland. From Ireland to America, and back to Ireland again. But in Ireland, the holiday is a bit of a mash-up between the old and the new. (Unless of course. You are a modern pagan!)
In Ireland, two hills in the Boyne Valley, Tlachtga, and Tara, are associated with the ancient beginnings of Samhain. But the best place to observe the holiday is in Derry, Northern Ireland.
In Ireland, two hills in the Boyne Valley, Tlachtga, and Tara, are associated with the ancient beginnings of Samhain. But the best place to observe the holiday is in Derry, Northern Ireland.
Places to Stay
Roe Park Resort
40 Drumrane Rd, Limavady BT49 9LB (United Kingdom)
Redcastle Hotel
Moville, Inishowen Peninsula
County Donegal (Republic of Ireland)
Places to Eat
Browns Bonds Hill – Irish/European
1 Bonds Hill, Derry BT47 6DW
Fitzroys – Irish/European
2-4 Bridge Street, Derry BT48 6JZ
The Sooty Olive Restaurant – Irish/European
160-164 Spencer Road Waterside, Derry BT47 6AH