Ah, the French Riviera. Also known as the Côte d’Azur, this popular destination is famed for its glamorous cities, medieval hilltop towns, and pristine beaches which lead into a glistening azure sea. In this issue of John Eric Home, we are dropping in to spend glorious summer days here. The ultimate summer destination.
The French Riviera is full of hidden gems and fabulous sands. It’s a place of uninhabited islands and breathtaking cliffs. It’s no wonder that it has beckoned voyagers to its shores for centuries. Its mystique and elevated joie de vivreare palpable.
This long stretch of coast along the Mediterranean Sea is meant for exploring. Hilltop villages, the beaches of St. Tropez, the glamor of Monaco and Cannes, the culture of Nice – what more can one ask for? Every day is different. And you are not starved for choices on how to while away your days.
Nice
Nice is the 5th largest city in France and is perched on the eastern side of the Riviera. It is known as the “Capital” of the region. The city boasts a rich culture and a delicious regional cuisine. Dating back to 350 BCE, Nice – previously known as Nike and Nizza – is easily one of the most cultural and charming cities in France.
While visiting, make sure to make your way along the world-renowned Promenade des Anglais. This nearly 4.5-mile-long boulevard provides uninterrupted coastal views of the Mediterranean Sea and is the perfect place to get a feel for the French Riviera.
In Nice, also make sure to spend time in the old town (Vieux Nice) and meander along its narrow, cobbled streets. Stop by the Cours Saleya, a bustling market, where the atmosphere is electric, and the aromas excite your senses, except for Mondays. That’s the day for the marché à la brocante, the antiques/flea market.
One of the most important museums in the world – the Musée Matisse – sits atop Cimiez Hill. This 17th-century villa, which was once the home of the artist, now houses his works. Here you can find, perhaps, the best collection of his catalogue. The museum itself is surrounded by beautiful gardens and ancient olive groves. While on Cimiez Hill, make sure to stop at the nearby archaeological museum, built on the site of the remains of the ancient Roman city of Cemenelum, which is worth the visit too.
Monaco
The glitz and glamor of Monaco – this country does not do “understated” well. Monaco offers a unique perspective of the Côte d’Azur. Famed for its wealth, yachts, Monte Carlo, and hosting the famous inner city Grand Prix, Monaco is a micro country overflowing with luxury. But Monaco is more diverse than it may first appear with its historical old town, botanical gardens, and museums.
After walking along the marina and taking in the super-yachts, explore the Jardin Exotique de Monaco. A stunning oasis perched above the city, this botanical garden is home to over 1000 species of cacti and succulents from across the world. Towering cacti frame the panoramic view across the Port of Monaco extending as far as Italy.
Then there is the Oceanography Museum. A cross between an aquarium and a natural history museum, this grand baroque building is home to an impressive collection of marine life and oceanographic artifacts. It’s worth a stop. And of course, Monaco Ville (also known as The Rock), is a lovely place to saunter about. Much smaller than the old town of Nice, Monaco’s old town still has the typical picturesque winding streets and colorful buildings to lose several hours to.
St. Paul de Vence, Antibes and Cannes
And now, moving into the heart of the Riviera…
The hilltop village of Saint Paul de Vence, a perfectly intact Medieval village renowned for its art awaits. Matisse, Picasso, Chagall, and Renoir all spent time here, and today the narrow lanes are full of art galleries and artisan studios. Take a stroll through the historic streets and enjoy the sculptures and vine-covered buildings that are around every corner.
After St. Paul de Vence, further along the coast is Antibes. This 16th-century walled city has always drawn visitors. It’s a popular day trip from Nice. But again, it is an artist that draws locals and visitors to its quite special museum. The Musee Picasso. Picasso lived in Antibes for a time and now has a museum dedicated to his life and works.
Cannes is, of course, known for its annual film festival and all the glitz and glitter that accompanies it. But Cannes is also the premier spot on the Riviera to spend days on and in the water.
The city offers a wide range of watersports: parasailing along the Mediterranean coast, paddleboarding and kayaking on the sea, or gently gliding through azure waters on a vessel. Being on the water is in this city’s blood. And true to fashion, the best way to see the coast is from the water. Why? Because it offers a unique perspective on the city and its hidden coves along the shore of which there are many to explore.
Cannes’ old town is smaller than Vieux Nice, but it is just as charming. This section of the city offers a wide range of restaurants, from Michelin-starred to rustic. They line the streets of the old town, and it’s almost guaranteed that your dinner will be one of the best as you enjoy some of the region’s finest food.
Outside of Cannes the island of Sainte Marguerite awaits. To access the isle, a ferry runs daily from Cannes to the isle which is one of the four Lerins Islands. Pack a picnic basket and spend the morning exploring the unspoiled island via the pine and eucalyptus-lined walking trails. At only 1+ mile long, you can easily explore and reach hidden corners of the island on foot. If you are a movie buff or know the history of the Man in the Iron Mask, stop in at the Museum of the Sea to visit the prison cell where he was kept before heading back to the mainland.
St. Tropez
It’s time to move further along the coast to our next destination. St Tropez. Long associated with sunbathing, beach parasols, and deck chairs – St. Tropez is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the region. The other towns mentioned before only offer pebble beaches along their shores but not St. Tropez. Here you will find wide stretches of golden sands, glistening turquoise waters, and undulating dunes.
St. Tropez was once a quiet fishing village; however, it rose to popularity when the 1956 film And God Created Womanstarring Brigitte Bardot was shot here. Since then, it has been a popular destination to soak in that Riviera style.
Like the rest, St. Tropez has a lovely old port (Vieux Port). Here, rows of luxurious, modern super yachts are moored. The best of the best display their full plumage. It is a must-see stop on any itinerary.
While there is more to St. Tropez than sunbathing, it IS what makes this town so well-known. If glitz and glamour are your thing, head to the world-famous Pampelonne Beach. This stretch of golden sand, clear blue sea, and exclusive beach clubs draw the rich and famous. However, if you want to soak in the St Tropez beach scene without dealing with crowds, head further along the coast to Canoubiers Beach. At this quieter spot, you’ll find locals taking a dip in the ocean and enjoying the natural shade of the umbrella pines.
The Golden Islands
In the Western part of the Côte d’Azur lies a town often overlooked by tourists but favored by the French. The charming medieval town of Hyères is quiet and lovely and a wonderful place to relax. But Hyères is not our destination. Rather, it’s the gateway for island hopping to the gorgeous archipelago south and east of this peninsula.
The ‘Golden Islands’ a collection of three islands all offering beautiful vistas, sandy beaches, lush greenery, and diverse wildlife are not to be missed. Port Cros National Park, a protected oasis of nature and tranquility, is the wildest of the three. Providing excellent hiking trails, you can fully immerse yourself in the natural and cultural wonders of Southern France.
The area is world-renowned for spectacular diving with crystal clear waters and an abundance of protected sea life. There are 15 incredible scuba diving locations around Hyères and the Golden Islands including a shipwreck off the coast.
Cassis
The final bit of the French Riviera to be explored is the picturesque fishing village of Cassis. Nestled between the dramatic Cap Canaille (the highest sea cliff in France) and the Calanques National Park, Cassis is easily one of the most beautiful villages on the Cote d’Azur.
The port is the beating heart of this small town. If you arrive early enough, you’ll catch the fish market where local fishermen sell their catch of the day to locals and restaurants along the shore. The streets of the town are largely car-free making it a great place to wander around.
You can discover more about the history of Cassis in the Musée d’Art et Traditions Populaires which houses permanent collections of archeological artifacts and fine art alongside temporary exhibitions from the Provence region.
Pack a picnic and head out to the Calanques National Park, a stunning area of natural beauty. The park is home to 26 Calanques, which are narrow, steep-walled inlets that have formed in limestone rocks, resembling fjords. These breathtaking natural formations combined with the pale rocks, lush pine trees, sandy coves, and crystal-clear turquoise waters, make up this strikingly picturesque landscape.
The French Riveria has drawn millions of visitors to its shores. It is easily understood why. It satisfies any and every traveler’s needs. From glamor to nature…. from soft, sandy beaches to medieval hamlets……. days on the water to nights in a casino…. history, art, culture, gastronomy… it’s all here on the Côte d’Azur.