Once upon a time, in the rolling hills of Italy, there lived two famous types of ham: Prosciutto Crudo and Prosciutto Cotto. Though both were beloved by the people of Italy, their stories were quite different, and their paths to becoming iconic hams had been shaped by centuries of tradition, innovation, and regional pride.
The Birth of Prosciutto Crudo
Centuries ago, in the heart of central Italy, artisans sought to perfect the art of curing ham. They believed the key to be carefully balancing nature and craftsmanship. In the small village of Parma, locals began preparing ham by salting it and then hanging it in a cool, dry place for several months. As they perfected their methods, they noticed that the ham’s flavor deepened with time, becoming more complex and more savory. This process, called crudo (meaning raw), involved no heat—only salt, air, and time. The artisans called this creation Prosciutto Crudo, a raw ham that would become highly sought after by everyone from kings to peasants.
For hundreds of years, Prosciutto Crudo was made only in the most ideal regions for curing—places like Parma, San Daniele, and Tuscany, where the unique climate made it possible to perfectly dry the ham. Over time, these hams became a symbol of Italian pride and artistry. The process of creating Prosciutto Crudo was passed down from generation to generation, with each village or region perfecting its unique variations. This was ham in its purest form—untouched by heat, preserved by nature’s finest elements, and celebrated for its bold flavors.
The Rise of Prosciutto Cotto
Not everyone agreed with the method of leaving the meat raw and hanging in the elements for so long. In the warmer regions of Italy, especially in the south, the climate didn’t lend itself to the long drying process needed to make Prosciutto Crudo. Local artisans once again got to work. They experimented with a new method—a method that involved cooking the ham, rather than leaving it raw.
And so, Prosciutto Cotto, or “cooked ham,” was born. The makers of Prosciutto Cotto carefully selected the best cuts of pork, seasoned them with a variety of herbs and spices, and then cooked the meat slowly, often by steaming or roasting. The result was a much milder ham, softer in texture and more delicate in flavor than its dry-cured counterpart. Its popularity grew.
Prosciutto Cotto became especially popular in urban areas, where it was used in everyday dishes like sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. Unlike Prosciutto Crudo, which was seen as a delicacy best enjoyed in small, savory slices, Prosciutto Cotto became an everyday food. Easy to prepare and not requiring the long wait for curing, it was perfect for the lifestyles of those who lived in cities.
As time went on, Prosciutto Cotto gained widespread popularity, particularly in regions like Emilia-Romagna, Lazio, and Campania. While Prosciutto Crudo represented the deep traditions of Italy’s rural heartlands, Prosciutto Cotto spoke to the growing modernization and urbanization of the country.
Though the two hams followed different paths, each continues to have its place in Italian life. One, a symbol of artistry and craftsmanship. The other, a star place in the homes of families, in fast food eateries and pizzerias.
Companion Piece
Thoughts on Prosciutto Cotto and the Evolution of Italian Cuisine from Owner of the Famed Upper West Side Lucciola.
Chef Michele Massari, owner and Head Chef of Lucciola in Manhattan, is famous for being known as the ‘five ingredients chef.’ He follows a strict rule of using only five ingredients in his recipes. That is what makes his dishes shine. They are not encumbered, over-sauced, heavy. The flavors are sharp and clear. Chef Michele uses a full bench of quality ingredients in his cooking. And one of those ingredients is Prosciutto Cotto.
“Prosciutto Cotto is truly unlike anything else you’ll find,” says Massari. “It’s crafted with meticulous attention to detail and quality—qualities that are increasingly rare in today’s market. It embodies the finest Italian traditions. The flavor is delicate yet incredibly rich with a texture so tender it practically melts in your mouth.”
One of the qualities that Chef Michele appreciates about Prosciutto Cotto is its complexity. “What really sets it apart,” he says, “is the infusion of herbs and spices, adding a complexity that elevates it beyond the ordinary. Whether it’s in a simple sandwich or a more sophisticated gourmet dish, Prosciutto Cotto brings something truly special to the table.”
The strength of Italian cuisine has and will always continue to be based on three significant aspects. Purity. Simplicity. Artistry. The ingredients Chef Michele chooses and the dishes he creates for his restaurants and clients seamlessly incorporate all the above. He has a unique way of maintaining the traditions of the past while looking to the future.
“To truly evolve and modernize, we must understand and honor our past,” he says. “Italian culinary tradition is a testament to this, where all innovation stems from a rich historical tapestry. In this journey, the role of the best Italian chefs is pivotal, as they act as the custodians of this heritage while driving its evolution. The integration of global ingredients and techniques by top chefs is another defining feature of modern Italian cooking, showcasing a willingness to experiment while maintaining the integrity of traditional flavors. This blend of the old and new results in a delightful gastronomic journey, offering surprises and comfort in equal measure.”
And how does he fit Prosciutto Cotto into this scheme?
“For me, Prosciutto Cotto is a celebration of purity and craftsmanship. It shines in both classic and contemporary dishes—whether you’re using it to make a croque monsieur or quiche or pairing it with fresh figs and burrata for an elegant appetizer. Its depth of flavor enhances every bite. One of my favorite ways to serve it is draped over warm, freshly baked focaccia, with just a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. It’s simple, yet absolutely unforgettable.”
Modern Italian cuisine, spearheaded by top chefs such as Massari, isn’t confined to high-end restaurants. It’s making its way into casual dining and street food, adapting to various settings while retaining its core principles. This versatility makes it more accessible and relatable to a broader audience, showcasing the adaptability and reach of the best Italian chef.
Under the tutelage of chefs such as Michele Casadei Massari, modern Italian cuisine is a dynamic and ever-evolving art form. It respects its illustrious past while boldly marching into the future, deeply connected to its roots, yet unafraid to explore and innovate.
About Michele Casadei Massari
Born in the picturesque Riccione in 1975 and deeply steeped in the rich cultural backdrop of Bologna, Chef Michele Massari’s journey is a testament to his passion for the multifaceted heritage of Italy. From its delectable cuisine to its lively arts and literature, his fervor resonates in his every endeavor.
Chef Michele began his New York culinary adventure when, with his friend Alberto Ghezzi, he opened the doors of Piccolo Café on 3rd Avenue in 2009. Since then, his star meteorically rose, and he is now known as one of the world’s elite chefs and consultants. His collaborations span globally, partnering with renowned entities like Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano and Pastificio Felicetti, solidifying his role as chef and brand ambassador for the US domain. He has hosted cooking shows and is also the Executive Chef of the Biografilm Food Academy and Ferrari North America.
In Chef Michele’s kitchen, three tenets shine through: a dedication to the rhythm of seasonal and local ingredients, a mastery of time-honored techniques refined to perfection, and an artistic inquiry that goes beyond mere cooking. Each dish, meticulously crafted, tells a story, not merely mingling ingredients but weaving them into a narrative of passion and purpose.
Michele, an esteemed chef, design enthusiast, and visionary entrepreneur, proudly holds the titles of CEO, Founder, and Executive Chef at Lucciola, an intimate 25-seat culinary haven. Each dish is expertly paired with selections from an award-winning wine list, a collection that recently earned the revered “Due Bicchieri” accolade from Wine Spectator.
Beyond Lucciola’s mesmerizing confines, Michele graces the BiograFilm Food Academy in Bologna as their Executive Chef. His love for the cinematic arts has also led him to contribute as an Advisor & Partner for I Wonder Pictures, a notable film production and distribution entity celebrated for cinematic masterpieces like the Oscar-laureate “Everything Everywhere All At Once” and “The Whale.”
At the heart of Michele’s culinary ethos lies the quintessential Italian philosophy: simplicity. He emphasizes the sheer quality of ingredients, letting them shine without the veil of over-complicated techniques. Beyond his gastronomic masterpieces, Michele’s voice is a cherished asset to platforms like RAI Italia and Il Sole 24 Ore, and a comforting presence on Italian national radio broadcasts, notably Radio 2. His creative vein further manifests in his endeavors as a conceptual photographer and his artistic forays into T-shirt design.
