When most people recall the moment that changed their life, it rarely begins with a canceled flight and luggage that was sent ahead. But for Travis Ruttkamp, the founder of Archer, a brand redefining American menswear, that’s exactly how it happened.
“I was stuck in Chicago with no clothes for two days,” he recalls. “Our luggage made it back to New York, but we didn’t.” He wandered into the nearest clothing store, a well-known luxury retailer, expecting to grab a few items of clothing. Instead, he found himself staring at “cheap fabrics, sloppy construction, and dull colors.”
A contrast hit him. Only days earlier, he had been in Tokyo, immersed in the world of Yohji Yamamoto – one of the most respected designers alive. “Spending time with Yohji completely changed the way I thought about clothing,” he says. “The level of detail, the quality of the fabrics, the precision… it was on another level.” That Chicago store, in all its mediocrity, was the catalyst for the founding of Archer. “I realized right there and then that I wanted to start my first brand.”
The Arts of Precision and Perfection
Ruttkamp’s time in Japan remains a cornerstone of his creative DNA.
“Japan taught me precision,” he remarks. “Observing Yamamoto work was like taking a living masterclass in design. Seeing his meticulous attention to craftsmanship, the careful selection and drape of fabrics, and the seamless blend of functionality and elegance had a lasting impact on how I approach my own work. It reinforced the importance of precision, thoughtful material choices, and creating pieces that are both beautiful and practical.”
He then went on to train with and observe master tailors in Italy. Here, he learned the art of perfection as taught to him by storied Italian craftsmen.
“My journey has taken me from studying craftsmanship in Japan to working alongside master tailors in Italy, where I learned the importance of perfection in every stitch. Those experiences, combined with building a brand rooted in American heritage, have shaped how I approach each garment design.”
Japan gifted him precision, Italy perfection, and America has given him heritage, purpose, and a market hungry for quality-driven menswear.
The Mindset
Some designers begin with a sketch. Others begin with a mood board. Ruttkamp begins with fabric.
“My creative process always starts with the material,” he explains. “I look for high-quality natural fabrics with texture and functionality, and then I ask myself – What would this be perfect for? What inspires me is the pursuit of elevating everyday dressing. I love pieces that age beautifully and serve multiple roles in a man’s wardrobe.”
That philosophy birthed his first garment – an elevated T-shirt he could never find, one refined enough for a sport coat yet relaxed enough for jeans. “As my style evolved, so did the line.” Today, his focus is trousers. And those trousers are the heart of Archer.
The Archer Ethos
“Archer was born from a gap between athleisure and traditional dress pants. I wanted the comfort and easy-care performance of athletic wear, but with the drape, refinement, and look of a beautifully tailored dress trouser.”
The result is a line of trousers that blends luxury-level fabric with purposeful design and a tailored silhouette.
“It’s world-class fabric meets true American craftsmanship,” he says. “Every garment is made from scratch in Rochester, NY, using materials chosen not just for their beauty but their quality and performance.”
The brand uses merino wool from one of Milan’s most renowned mills, prized for its quality and sustainability. “Our wool has a ‘dry hand’ which makes it more durable and wrinkle-resistant while giving the trousers a soft, elegant drape.” The fabric is machine washable, breathable, moisture-wicking, odor-resistant, temperature-regulating, and subtly stretchy thanks to a sustainable Japanese yarn.
Ruttkamp’s commitment to fabric reaches beyond just quality. “I still remember being in a major fabric store in New York early in my career, trying to absorb everything I could about textiles. One of the store managers picked up a small swatch, pulled out a lighter, and held a flame to the edge. He watched it for a second and said, “It didn’t melt, so it’s natural.” It was such a simple test, but it opened my eyes to how much you can learn from fabric by really engaging with it. Moments like that sparked my obsession with high-quality natural materials and the role they play in great clothing.”
The Custom Process—Perfecting the Fit
“Wearing custom-made clothing is important because it ensures a perfect fit rather than relying on off-the-rack adjustments. Some men only need minor tweaks, like opening or reducing the waist and seat, while others, especially those with athletic builds, require more room in the thighs, seat, and calves. When trousers are made from scratch, every detail is precise – no bunching at the waist, no awkward spacing between the back pockets. The result is a garment that not only fits perfectly but also looks effortless and just right.”
Each piece of custom clothing that Ruttkamp designs goes through a two-step process – first, the design, then the customization.
He, of course, starts to design with the fabric. But unlike many designers who begin by pairing a design to a material, Ruttkamp does the opposite. “I first chose a material. Then I decide on the type of garment the fabric would be perfect for.” From there, he sketches designs that balance classic silhouettes with details, focusing on proportion, movement, and an evergreen appeal. “Once the design feels right on paper, I move into prototyping, testing fit and performance, and refining every detail until the piece meets both aesthetic and practical standards.”
And how does the customizing process at Archer work?
The process of creating a custom-made garment depends on the customer. “Some clients already have a pair of trousers that they love and simply want us to recreate the fit in our fabrics. Others struggle to find pants that fit off-the-rack. Some know exactly what they want. Others have never found trousers that fit.
“We send a sample pair in our standard tapered fit and adjust the pattern based on the client’s feedback. Because each pair is made from scratch, we can accommodate almost any fit needed and offer details like side adjusters, cuffs, pleats, and more. Once we have the client’s fit dialed in, we then save it on file, so we always know how to make their perfect trousers. Each garment is then made in Rochester. The goal is always the same: a personalized fit that feels effortless and looks refined.”
Archer’s custom service reflects the brand’s ethos – personal, precise, perfect, and grounded in craftsmanship. It’s a thoughtful, quality-driven approach that puts craftsmanship at the center of everything they make.
Who Wears Archer?
Archer’s clients share a common thread – they value quality, simplicity, and ease. They’re men who want clothing that performs as well and pieces that make looking polished effortless.
“Our clients are typically working professionals who value classic wardrobe staples. They lead active, pragmatic lives and look for clothing that performs as well as it looks, whether at the office, traveling, or on the weekend. They appreciate refined fabrics, thoughtful construction, and versatile pieces that combine functionality with timeless style, allowing them to feel polished and comfortable in any setting.”
These are men who appreciate craftsmanship, natural fabrics, and timelessness. Men who want their wardrobes to work for them.
Unsurprisingly, Yohji Yamamoto remains Ruttkamp’s north star. But he also looks to “brands that have held the torch for quality and refinement in menswear” – Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, Kiton, and Zegna. “They never waver from their identity,” he says. “That inspires me to stay true to a vision and to craft pieces that are enduring and versatile.”
Some memories rise above the rest. His favorite? A personal one.
“I once made a pair of trousers from this beautiful sky-blue corduroy,” says Ruttkamp. “My three-year-old son saw them and immediately said, ‘Those are amazing!’ and ‘I want pants like that!’ Kids are honest. If a three-year-old thinks your pants are cool, you’re doing something right.”
A Journey Rooted in Craft
From Tokyo to Milan to Rochester, the thread running through his journey is clear – it’s craftsmanship, intention, and an unwavering belief that clothing should feel as good as it looks.
“I want to create garments that stand the test of time,” he says. “Pieces that elevate everyday dressing and feel effortless.” With Archer, he’s doing exactly that – one perfect pair of trousers at a time.
When asked what sets Archer apart, he answers without hesitation…
“We focus on refined wardrobe staples, not trends.”
Every choice is intentional. Every cut is purposeful. Every material is exceptional.
