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Reading: Where it All Began…
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DestinationsSpecial Features

Where it All Began…

Back to Bethlehem and where it all began.

December 19, 2023

For Christians around the world, Bethlehem is the most revered site on earth to celebrate Christmas. And there is no better place in the world to mark Christmas Eve than in Bethlehem, standing in the same place where Jesus Christ was born. 

The birthplace of Christ is only a bus or taxi ride away from the Old City of Jerusalem within the West Bank. While most will never travel to Bethlehem to celebrate Christmas, for those who do, the experience will be that of a lifetime. Bethlehem has a large Christian community and Christmas is celebrated like a city festival. There are lights and decorations everywhere, Christmas songs ring out through the streets, and a huge Christmas tree is erected in Manger’s Square.

Of course, the main draw happens to be the Church of the Nativity. Many visitors aspire to attend Midnight Mass there, and there are usually many VIPs, such as the Palestinian leadership, in attendance. Security measures around the church are very high and it can only be entered with a scarce pre-booked entrance ticket. In addition, dress is conservative. No shorts, skirts, tanks, or exposing any body parts that would be considered inappropriate.

For those who manage a ticket (and are dressed properly), the site of Jesus’ birth is found in the basement of the Church, in the area known as the Grotto of the Nativity. Here, a boisterous crowd waits for admission into the Grotto, singing and clapping, An Orthodox priest guards the Grotto’s entrance and adheres to the strict rules of entry. The wait to get into the Grotto can be an hour or more. But it is well worth it. 

Once past the guard, steep stairs lead down into the cave, where the manger was located. Jesus’ birthplace is marked with a star. Here is one of the most holy sites in the Christian religion. And, from where Christmas sprang.

For those who are unable to acquire a ticket, there is another option to celebrate the Christmas mass. At Sheperds’ Fields in Beit Sahour (just east of Bethlehem), small international groups celebrate mass outside in the fields. It’s a connected experience to walk around and listen to all the talking and singing of the Christmas traditions in different languages.

Next to the Shepherds’ Fields is a restaurant called “The Tent.” On Christmas Eve, it’s full of locals who celebrate Christmas with their friends and family. Eating great Palestinian food and singing and dancing with locals is an amazing way to also celebrate the holiday.

Observing Christmas in Bethlehem is an experience that is treasured. It brings even more meaning to a solemn and joyful holiday.

Where to Stay

King David Jerusalem

23 King David Street, Jerusalem 94101

Waldorf Astoria

Gershon Agron St 26-28, Jerusalem 9419008

Mamilla Hotel

Shlomo Ha-Melekh 11 Street, Jerusalem 94182

Where to Eat

Atalya

9a Ein Kerem, Jerusalem 9574409 

Happy Fish Restaurant 

 Mamilla Hotel, Jerusalem 94182 

Margo

Mamilla Hotel, Jerusalem 94182 

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Hillary Broadwater December 19, 2023
Previous Article Celebrating Hanukkah in Israel
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